Gumbo with a Twist

360 Magazine, p. 64 | January 2011
by Meda Kessler

Much as we resolve to eat better come the new year, cold weather has us clamoring for something warm and filling. We figure there’s a reason they call it comfort food. At Lili’s Bistro on Magnolia in Fort Worth, owner Vance Martin and chef Heather Hogan tweaked an existing recipe until they came up with a gumbo that pays allegiance to its Louisiana roots with just the right amount of heat and beautiful color. The earthiness comes not only from the file but from the generous addition of mushrooms and the duck meat. Rich? Yes, but we don’t consider that a four-letter word.

Duck Gumbo with Wild Mushrooms

At Lili's the rich dark gumbo is garnished with hush puppies

DUCK GUMBO WITH WILD MUSHROOMS
Serves 6

Gumbo

  • 1 whole duck, bones and cut into quarters (save bones, wings and organs)
  • 1/8 cup oil
  • 3/4 cup flour
  • 1 red bell pepper, chopped
  • 2 stalks celery, chopped
  • 2 onions, chopped
  • 4 cups wild mushrooms (oyster, porcini, orels, etc.) chopped into large pieces
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 teaspoons gumbo file
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons Cajun seasoning
  • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne

Stock

  • Duck bones, wings and organs
  • 1 carrot
  • 2 stalks celery
  • 1 onion
  • 4 cups chicken stock
  • 4 cups beef stock

Stock
Brown duck bones, wings and organs with stock vegetables. Add chicken and beef stock and boil until reduced by half. Strain, reserving liquid.

Gumbo
Brown duck pieces in large pot. Remove duck from pot and set aside, leaving fat in pot. To the fat, add 1/8 cup oil and 3/4 cup flour. Cook over medium-low heat for 20-25 minutes, stirring frequently, until roux becomes the color of milk chocolate. Add the red bell pepper, celery, onion and mushrooms. When vegetables are tender, add reduced stock plus enough water to make 8 cups, and add the spices. When mixture starts to thicken, return the duck pieces to the pot. Simmer for 90 minutes. When cool, shred the duck meat into the gumbo mixture, removing any remaining bones. Serve with white rice.

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